Fabrics [The best vs. the good, the bad, and the ugly]

Ever been confused by fabric choices and what is actually a sustainable choice when it comes to buying clothes? Yes, it’s confusing! 

There are so many choices out there so I thought I’d give you a quick and simple breakdown of the different types of fibres and the pros and cons of each.

Next time you buy you’ll be a little more informed without having to do the research yourself, because well frankly who has time for that!? I have done a lot of it throughout the years, and it still gives me a headache sometimes, as it’s really not that straightforward. 

I hope this helps you make a more educated choice the next time you buy something...and the planet might just thank you too.

 Let’s start with the good.

NATURAL FIBRES

A few natural fibres are Flax, Hemp, Cotton, Linen, Silk, Wool, Alpaca, Cashmere, and Bamboo.  Essentially they are fibres made from natural sources.

The pros of natural fibres is that they are long-lasting, breathable, biodegradable, renewable, carbon-neutral, non-allergenic (not harmful to human skin), and they don’t contain any micro-plastics which means they won’t leak any into our water when washed.

Like with anything, there are also some cons with natural fibres as they are not all created equal. Some of these plants can be grown with the use of pesticides which can pollute the land.

Keep an eye out for Oeko-Tex and GOTS certified, as well as Organic versions of these fabrics, as these are always the best choice but are still sometimes hard to come by for both brand and consumer.

SYNTHETIC FIBRES

Most commonly know as Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Spandex, and Latex.

Synthetic fibres are mainly used for Activewear, Swimwear, and PPE. 

Most recently, recycled versions have become more readily available, especially for Swim & Activewear. Some leggings are now even made of recycled plastic bottles which is great. I’ve bought a few of these items myself and I can highly recommend them! 

Sadly synthetic fibres are amongst some of the worst environmental offenders as they are made from petroleum based chemicals, also known as petro-chemicals (eg. oil & plastic). They are not biodegradable and they contribute to environmental pollution and micro-plastics in our oceans and waterways. They give off harmful vapors (volatile organic compounds) for years which can be toxic to humans. They can also be dangerous and catch on fire more easily than natural fibres. The list goes on.  So when you can, it’s best to avoid them.

SEMI-SYNTHETIC / CELLULOSE FIBRES

Lyocell, Tencel, EcoVero, Modal (Rayon & Viscose)

Look out for Lyocell, better known as TENCEL, which is a fibre made from the wood pulp of trees that are grown and replaced on specialised tree farms. Unlike most cellulosic fabrics, Tencel is produced using recyclable, Earth-friendly solvents.

The pros of Tencel and Modal are that they are biodegradable, and made in a closed-loop production meaning little to no environmental impact. 

TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibres help to maintain the environmental balance by being integrated into nature´s cycle. The fibres originate from the renewable raw material wood, created by photosynthesis. The certified biobased fibres are manufactured using an environmentally responsible production process. The fibres are certified as compostable and biodegradable, and thus can fully revert back to nature. 

TENCEL™ Lyocell fibres have gained a commendable reputation for their environmentally responsible closed loop production process, which transforms wood pulp into cellulosic fibres with high resource efficiency and low environmental impact. This solvent-spinning process recycles process water and reuses the solvent at a recovery rate of more than 99%. Consumers can have the assurance that their fashion choices are not contributing to an adverse impact on the environment.

Recently Lenzing has released a new fibre onto the market called EcoVero. EcoVero is made of sustainable viscose fibres and is also from sustainable wood sources much like Tencel, which is really great news.

There are however some cons to these semi-synthetic fibres, as lower grade versions of viscose and rayon which are not by the company Lenzing can use harmful chemicals in the manufacturing process which may leak into the surrounding environment and could be harmful for anyone coming into contact with it in the factory or in neighbourhoods nearby. It can also lead to deforestation if not made in a closed-loop where the trees are grown for this purpose alone and therefore immediately replanted.

SO WHAT SHOULD I BUY?

In short, all Natural fibres (Cotton, Linen, Wool, etc.) along with some Semi-Synethic fibres such as TENCEL and EcoVero are your best choices out there at the moment, especially when it comes to Organic, Oeko-Tex as well as GOTS Certified, if you can find them.

Even though some of these fabrics, therefore garments can be more expensive, they do last longer, are of better quality, and will eventually biodegrade. Less cost per wear for you and no major environmental impact to the planet, so a win-win really!

Let's be honest, it's impossible to avoid Synthetic fibres all together, for many reasons I won't go into now, but if you can avoid them it will definitely have a positive impact in more ways than one. This is especially true for clothing which has alternate sustainable options available such as dresses, t-shirts, etc. Look out for the recycled versions of Spandex, Polyester, and Nylon in your active and swimwear purchases, or even get them second hand on eBay or Depop (not always the most appealing choice). Lastly, try washing synthetic fabrics less or in a mesh bag such as Guppyfriend which is designed capture the tiny plastic particles in the bag so fewer micro-plastics escape into our waterways.